Fundamental Facts
HARDINESS: Zones 3 to 9
PREFERRED SOIL pH: Neutral to acid
PREFERRED SOIL TYPE: Fertile, well-drained
PREFERRED LIGHT: Sun to partial shade
ATTRIBUTES: Large, many colored flowers; for beds, pots, cut-flower arrangements
SEASON OF INTEREST: Summer
FAVORITES: Asiatic, Oriental, trumpet lilies; L. longiflorum, L. superbum, L. auratum
QUIRKS: Needs a minimum of 6 weeks chilling below 40°F (4°C)
GOOD NEIGHBORS: Ajuga, sedum, midsized ornamental grasses, roses, small shrubs
WHERE IT GROWS BEST: In sun and fertile, well-drained soil; may need light afternoon shade
POTENTIAL PROBLEMS: Aphids; lily mottle virus
RENEWING PLANTS: Lives up to 5 years; divide in foil or in early spring in cold climates
CRITTER RESISTANCE: Poor; vulnerable to deer, woodchucks, rabbits, mice, and voles
PLANTING DEPTH: 3 times as deep as the bulb is high
SOURCE: Bulbs
DIMENSIONS: 3-8 ft (1-2.4 m) tall, 12 in (30.5 cm) wide
Lily in the Landscape
Their sometimes fragrant, trumpet-shaped, large blossoms in white, pink, yellow, and orange have earned lilies the nickname "queen of the bulbs". With an upright habit, lilies mingle easily with shrubs, roses, perennials, and annuals. Site them prominently in a bed, pot, or by a walk, where you can enjoy the blossoms all summer.
All in the Family
Most modern lilies are hybrids and are organized into groups. Oriental lilies have huge, fragrant blossoms and grow to 5 ft (1.5 m). Asiatic lilies grow 3 ft (1 m) tall and produce smaller flowers over a long period. Trumpet lilies reach 5-6 ft (1.5-1.8 m) tall, have smaller but more numerous flowers, and grow into vigorous dumps in a few years.
Among the species there is the Easter lily (Lilium longiflorum). which blooms in spring with long white trumpets but is hardy only to Zone 8. A good choice for the back of the border is the 8 ft (2.4 m) tall Turks-cap lily (L. superbum), whose freckled orange petals are folded back into little turbans. A garden standout is the goldband lily (L. duratum), a late-season bloomer with white flowers streaked in gold and spotted with crimson.
Growing Lily
Usually sold in spring and fall, lily bulbs should be planted promptly, as they remain dormant for only a short time. Choose a sunny site with fertile, very well-drained soil amended with rotted manure or other organic matter. Dig a hole 3 times as deep as the bulb is high, gently set the bulbs 6-8 in (15.2-20.3 cm) apart, and cover with soil. Lilies are also sold in pots. Plant them as you would any perennial, setting them in the hole at the same depth they occupied in the pot.
Fertilize lilies soon after they emerge in spring with an organic or low-nitrogen granular fertilizer, such as 5-10-10, applied as directed on the label. Stake tall types as the stems develop to keep them from toppling in the wind. When cutting the flowers, take short stems and leave the remaining foliage to nourish the bulb. Clip off spent flowers to keep energy from going into producing seeds.
Tiny sap-sucking, pear-shaped insects called aphids may congregate on tender shoots and buds. Knock them off with a forceful spray of water or apply insecticidal soap as directed on the label. Sucking insects can carry lily mottle virus, which disfigures leaves, stems, and flowers. There is no cure, and affected plants must be destroyed. Protect against deer by planting in well-traveled areas near your house or put a fence around your lilies. Protect bulbs from rodents by encasing them loosely in chicken wire at planting time.
Increasing the Bounty
Most lilies multiply into clumps that may need dividing every 5 years or when the plants produce few flowers. In fall, or early spring in cold areas, dig up a clump, break it Into smaller pieces, and replant them immediately.
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