Fuchsia

Fundamental Facts

HARDINESS: Tender
PREFERRED SOIL pH: Neutral to slightly alkaline
PREFERRED SOIL TYPE: Fertile, well-drained
PREFERRED LIGHT: Partial shade
ATTRIBUTES: Pink, purple, salmon, and fuchsia flowers, green or variegated foliage; for baskets, pots
SEASON OF INTEREST: Summer to fall; can be grown as a houseplant
FAVORITES: 'Yuletide', 'Flirtation Waltz' for double flowers; 'Aurea', 'Little Jewel' for interesting foliage
QUIRKS: Needs frequent watering to prevent wilt; does not thrive in hot weather
GOOD NEIGHBORS: Licorice plant, coleus, pansy, plectranthus
WHERE IT GROWS BEST: Cool-summer locations; needs shade in hot areas
POTENTIAL PROBLEMS: Powdery mildew, botrytis, aphids, whiteflies
CRITTER RESISTANCE: Good
SOURCE: Bedding plants, cuttings
DIMENSIONS: 2 ft (0.6 m) tall, 12-14 in (30.5-35.6 cm) wide; width varies by variety

Fuchsia in the Landscape

Once called lady's eardrops because the pendant blossoms resemble earrings, fuchsias have developed an undeserved reputation as a fussy exotic.Yet fuchsias are easy to grow, whether they are compact specimens in hanging baskets or 2 ft (0.6 m) tall upright plants in pots or beds.

Fuchsia flowers look something like ballerina tutus. They come in double or single forms. Doubles, such as red-and-white 'Yuletide' and pink 'Flirtation Waltz', look as if they are harboring layers of crinolines. The flower color range includes fuchsia, of course, along with white, pink, purple, and salmon, with two colors commonly represented in a flower. Some are famed for their foliage, especially F. magellanica 'Aurea', which has narrow golden leaves on red stems and matching red blossoms. Another is 'Little Jewel', which has leaves variegated with white, green, and blush pink, and purple-and-red blossoms.

In mild-winter climates, such as that of coastal California, fuchsias can be grown outdoors year-round. But elsewhere fuchsias are best handled outdoors as container-grown annuals, which can be overwintered indoors or grown as houseplants.

Growing Fuchsia

In the right environment, fuchsias practically take care of themselves. Filtered light or shade is essential, especially in hot-summer climates. The plants wilt easily in hot and humid weather, making your first concern keeping the soil moist, particularly if the plants are growing in hanging baskets. Plants don't like to have their roots cramped, so make sure the container is large enough to allow for growth. Fuchsias grow best in sandy soil made fluffy by the liberal addition of compost or peat moss with a little garden lime mixed in to neutralize the acidity. For maximum flowering, fertilize plants every 2 to 3 weeks during the peak of flowering in summer with a soluble, balanced formula mixed to half strength.

During a long bout of damp, rainy weather, fungal leaf diseases like powdery mildew or botrytis occasionally trouble fuchsias. At the first sign of powdery spots that cannot be rubbed off, or dark leaf spots, move plants to a place with good air circulation and pick off and dispose of affected leaves. Plants that have not been watered enough can fall prey to the sap-sucking insects aphids and white-flies. These pests are easily controlled by spraying the plant with a strong stream of water from the hose or applying insecticidal soap according to package directions.

Should plants become spindly, cut the branches to within 6 in (I S.2 cm) of the base of the plant. They will sprout immediately and resume flowering. If you plan to keep your fuchsia from year to year, prune the plant back by two-thirds in the fall and bring it indoors to winter in a warm east- or west-facing window.

Increasing the Bounty

You can purchase handsome fuchsias in full flower from garden centers, or mail order small, starter plants. You can also start your own plants by taking stem cuttings from mature plants when new growth begins in early spring. Take 4 in (10.2 cm) stem cuttings, remove the bottom set of leaves, and "plant" the cuttings up to the first set of leaves in a pot of damp sand. Set the pot in a warm, sunny window and keep the sand moist until the cuttings root in 2 to 3 weeks. Then you can set them into a container of potting soil.