Cyclamen

Fundamental Facts

HARDINESS: Zones 5 to 9
PREFERRED SOIL pH: Neutral to slightly acid
PREFERRED SOIL TYPE: Fertile, well-drained
PREFERRED LIGHT: Partial shade
ATTRIBUTES: Heart-shaped leaves and dainty flowers; for beds, woodland gardens
SEASON OF INTEREST: Fall through spring
FAVORITES: C. hederifolium and C. coum
QUIRKS: Needs good soil drainage in summer
GOOD NEIGHBORS: Bugleweed, ferns, hosla, Solomon's seal
WHERE IT GROWS BEST: In open woods beneath tall trees
POTENTIAL PROBLEMS: Cyclamen mites, mice
RENEWING PLANTS: Lives for many years; does not need to be rejuvenated
CRITTER RESISTANCE: Fair; mice can seriously damage young plants
PLANTING DEPTH: 1 in (2.5 cm)
SOURCE: Tubercorms, nursery
DIMENSIONS: 4-6 in (10.2-15.2 cm) tall, spreads up to 12 in (30.5 cm) wide

Cyclamen in the Landscape

You're probably familiar with the florist's cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), which is hardy only to Zone 9 and is a popular winter houseplant because of its colorful blossoms. But there are also smaller, hardier, garden-worthy species that thrive in humus-rich soil, blooming in cool autumn weather, when little else is in flower. These dainty plants, with heart-shaped leaves and pink, rose, or white flowers that resemble shooting stars, make a unique accent for shady spots. Nestle a few against the roots of a large tree or tuck them into the curve of a path. When pleased with their location, hardy cyclamen will grow into lovely naturalized colonies.

Seasonal Cyclamen

You can extend cyclamen bloom time by growing different species. Hardy to Zone 5, ivy-leaved cyclamen (C. hederifolium) blooms in late summer to early fall with white or pink flowers held on 6 in (15.2 cm) stems. A few weeks after the flowers fade, dark green ivy-shaped leaves emerge, each marked with silver. The foliage lasts through winter, then the plants go dormant from spring to late summer.

The leaves of C. coum appear in fall; the magenta or fuchsia pink flowers appear on 4 in (10.2 cm) stems in early spring. C. coum also goes dormant in summer, but tolerates hot weather better than ivy-leaved cyclamen.

Growing Cyclamens

Cyclamens are sold as potted plants or dormant tuber-corms. The tuber-corms, which have some characteristics of both tubers and corms, look like smooth, rounded, somewhat flattened brown cookies. Small nubbins of growth indicate "this side up" when planting. Plant tuber-corms in summer and set out container-grown plants in early fall.

Before planting, amend soil with organic matter in the form of compost or leaf mold. Good drainage is crucial, because cyclamens grow poorly or rot in wet soil. Set tuber-corms 1 in (2.5 cm) below the soil's surface and after planting, mulch lightly with dried, chopped leaves.

When cyclamens are established, fertilize with a balanced organic or controlled-release fertilizer when new growth appears. Flower buds that appear crinkled and fail to open have likely been damaged by cyclamen mites, a minute spiderlike pest. Remove faded foliage in early summer to interrupt the life cycle of this pest.

The next fall, apply a commercial miticide labeled for use on cyclamen, according to package directions, as the flowers and foliage appear. Gaps in a planting can often be attributed to mice, which can eat the tubers.